Via Zodiac Wall, Rupe Secca
RUPE SECCA – PARETE EST
DATA RIPETIZIONE: 27/5/2012
NOME DELLA VIA: Via “Zodiac Wall” (I.Rabanser-A.Andreotti-M.Furlani, 2003)
DIFFICOLTA’: VII/A3
SVILUPPO: 260 m.
TEMPO DI SALITA: 5,45 h.
MATERIALE: Per la salita occorre una serie di friends (Camelot), nuts e alcuni chiodi vari. Indispensabili, inoltre, un paio di cliff (sia Talon che Graplin hook), per i passi in artificiale su buchini scavati ed un paio di staffe.
CORDATA: Filippo Nardi-Beppe Masneri
COMMENTO: Via molto bella, estremamente impegnativa, che alterna passi severi in arrampicata libera a lunghi tratti in artificiale, talvolta anche precario, su buchetti scavati, da 8 mm. Dopo il superamento del tetto a proboscide (anche con chiodi a pressione), si prosegue in libera lungo belle placche compatte superiori, sino all’uscita. Roccia ottima. Da i segni che abbiamo potuto notare, durante la nostra ripetizione, non risulta molto percorsa. E’ decisamente consigliabile, a patto di essere ben preparati sia sulle difficoltà che sul tipo di progressione.
AVVICINAMENTO: Dopo il diedro iniziale della famosa Mescalito, si prosegue sino sotto ad un altro caratteristico diedro, grigio e piuttosto repulsivo
DISCESA: Usciti dalla via, come per le altre vie della parete, portarsi per tracce verso il Colodri, sino al sentiero e alla ferrata che conduce alla base della parete. Circa 0,45.
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