Via Angolo silenzioso, Piz Miara
PIZ MIARA M. 2964 – PARETE NORD
DATA RIPETIZIONE: 31/8/2019
NOME VIA: “Angolo silenzioso” (I. Rabanser-H.Grill-S.Konigseder, 2008/2019)
DIFFICOLTA’: VII+ (VI+/A0)
SVILUPPO: 355 m.
TEMPO DI SALITA: 4,30 h.
MATERIALE: Lungo la via sono presenti chiodi normali e cordini in clessidra. Per ogni sosta si trova un fix con anello. Portare una serie di friends fino al 3 BD ed una piccola scelta di nuts.
CORDATA: Filipo Nardi-Alessandro Serpelloni
COMMENTO: Via ardita ed astuta che segue una logica serie di fessure e camini, intervallati da tratti in placca di un certo impegno. Per superare la zona strapiombante che sovrasta il sesto tiro, si effettua un esposto traverso che permette di raggiungere un bellissimo tiro su placca gialla prima e lama atletica poi. La roccia, nonostante la ripulitura dei primi salitori, non si presenta sempre buona, globalmente è discreta. Alcuni tratti, in particolare lungo il secondo, sesto e settimo tiro, è friabile ed occorre prestare notevole attenzione! La nostra è stata la prima ripetizione.
AVVICINAMENTO: Dal parcheggio sotto al “Traumpfeiler” (strada per il p.so Sella), una volta attraversata la strada, si segue una traccia che sale alla falesia. Da qui, sempre per sentiero, si risale l’evidente canalone (ometti) che conduce nell’ampia conca sottostante la parete settentrionale del Piz Miara (Val Gralba). Seguendo gli ometti, si prosegue sotto alla parete sino all’attacco, posto sotto ad un diedro giallo (cordino incastrato in fessura). 1 h circa.
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