Via Taldo, Punta Ferrario SSO
PUNTA FERRARIO M.3258 – PARETE SUD/OVEST
DATA RIPETIZIONE : 5-8-1999
NOME VIA : “Taldo” (V.Taldo- E.Frisia – C.Zamboni 4-10-59)
CORDATA : F.Nardi – M.Veclani
DIFFICOLTA’ : VI/A0
SVILUPPO : 470 mt
TEMPO : 5 ore
MATERIALE : nuts e friends (medio grandi) chiodi per sicurezza
COMMENTO : Via dai canoni classici, molto bella e remunerativa per arramicata, esposizione e ambiente circostante. Meriterebbe certamente di essere più conosciuta, ma forse il lungo avvicinamento tiene lontano i ripetitori. Roccia molto buona, chiodatura discreta, un paio di soste da rinforzare.
AVVICINAMENTO: suggerisco di spezzare la via in due giorni. Il primo giorno conviene raggiungere il bivacco Manzi-Pirotta e pernottare ( 4 ore dal parcheggio della Val di Mello) . Il secondo si effettua la salita. Dal bivacco seguire il sentiero Roma per il breve tratto verso il passo del Cameraccio, poi risalire direttamente la valletta detritica che porta alla base della parete. Salire a sx per placche adagiate, per circa 150 mt, sino all’ inizio dell’evidente fessura dove attacca la via. 1,15 h.
DISCESA: Piuttosto delicata: prestare attenzione! Dalla cima pochi metri verso Sud, sino ad un canale- diedro che sale dalla parete Ovest. Scendere in arrampicata (semplice) lungo di esso per 10 metri, sino ad una calata attrezzata. Con una doppia da 40 m. si giunge ad un grande camino, con evidente masso incastrato. Scendere facilmente per 40-50 metri ad una nuova calata attrezzata. Da qui con 3 doppie si arriva alla base della parete Ovest. Scendere per un pendio nevoso all’attacco della via. Per placche adagiate sino alla parete Sud. 1,30-2 h.
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