Via Diretta Giulio Fiorelli, P.zzo Badile
PIZZO BADILE M. 3308 - PARETE SUD/ EST
DATA DI SALITA: Agosto 1999
NOME VIA: Diretta “Giulio Fiorelli” (C. Pedroni-A.Rossi-C.Salvetti, 13/8/1982)
DIFFICOLTA’: VI / A2
SVILUPPO: 470 m. circa
MATERIALE: Via interessante, anche se non eccezionale, ben protetta, in un bellissimo contesto granitico d’alta quota. Portare una serie di nuts e friends, alcuni chiodi per sicurezza e cordini vari. Munirsi di parecchi rinvii per i tratti in ‘artificiale e una staffa.
TEMPO DI SALITA: 6,45 h.
CORDATA: Filippo Nardi-Silvio Valzelli
COMMENTO: Via bella ed estetica che forza direttamente la parte strapiombante iniziale, tramite una fessura, arrivando sulla zona centrale più adagiata. I due tiri in artificiale sono ben attrezzati, anche con chiodi a pressione e risultano abbastanza faticosi. Utile, al riguardo, portarsi una staffa a testa. Dopo aver incrociato la classica Molteni sul traverso a sx, la Diretta prosegue lungo un’ estetica serie di diedri/fessure, sempre su roccia molto buona. Al termine, si giunge nei pressi del bivacco Redaelli. Non sarà la via più bella del Badile, ma merita decisamente una ripetizione.
AVVICINAMENTO: Dal rif. Gianetti salire per tracce (anche ometti) attraverso pietraie e zone erbose, verso la parete del Pizzo Badile. Poco prima che il sentiero salga verso l’inizio della Normale, scendere nel vallone a dx , verso P.ta Enrichetta. Passando a sx di questa, si raggiunge il nevaio sotto la sud/est del Badile. Risalirlo sino sotto l’evidente e diretta fessura, posta al centro della parete. Circa 1,20 h.
DISCESA: Lungo la via normale. Circa 2 h.
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