Via Soldà, Campanile Wessely
CAMPANILE WESSELY M. 3077 PARETE SUD/OVEST
DATA SALITA: 2-8-2007
NOME VIA: “Via Soldà” (G.Soldà-F.Bertoldi, 13-14/7/1936) con variante d’uscita Rabanser-Comploi
DIFFICOLTA’: VI/ passi di VI+
SVILUPPO: 450 m. circa
MATERIALE: Portare una serie di nuts, una di friends, alcuni chiodi e parecchi cordini in kevlar.
TEMPO DI SALITA: 7,15 h.
CORDATA: Filippo Nardi-Beppe Prati
COMMENTO: Una grande via! Basterebbe questo a sintetizzare il valore di questa salita, pochissimo ripetuta ed ingiustamente temuta. Certo, per salirla occorre una salda esperienza alpinistica, ma se ben preparati, alla fine si può godere di una bellissima avventura, senza patemi eccessivi! La parte inferiore presenta roccia discreta, a tratti delicata e chiodatura pressochè assente, con due punti in cui non è facile individuare il giusto percorso. Quella alta invece (variante Rabanser-Comploi), è molto lineare ed estetica, quasi tutta all’interno di un diedrone-colatoio, su roccia buona, ma sempre pochissimo chiodata. Ci si protegge però bene con nuts e friends. Il punto chiave, rappresentato da un’impegnativa placca da supersi dapprima in leggero traverso a dx, poi in verticale, è ben protetto da due chiodi solidi ( uno con cordino giallo). Sicuramente una delle salite del Sassolungo, da valorizzre!
AVVICINAMENTO: Noi siamo partiti dal rif. Vicenza. Si risale, faticosamente, il grande conoide di ghiaie sottostante la parete e, giunti sotto la sua verticale, si abbandona la morena, risalendo uno zoccolo di roccette sino alla base del settore dx della parete. Si attacca presso una fessura (visibile un chiodo, alcuni metri in alto). Circa 1 h.
DISCESA: Dalla forcella tra anticima e vetta, si salgono roccette e pendii di sfaciumi in direzione della cima vera e propria ( passi di II e III-), raggiungendola in breve. Si percorre la cresta in direzione est sino ad una calata in doppia su due chiodi (da noi attrezzata). Ci si cala nel canalone sottostante raggiungendo velocemente la f.lla Alta. Si scende per il canalone Alto, attraversando l’Anfiteatro e congiungendosi con la normale dal Sassolungo. Per essa si torna al rif. Demetz. Circa 2,30 h.
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