Via Il mago di Oz, Cima De Gasperi
CIMA DE GASPERI M.2994 – PARETE NORD
DATA DI SALITA: 12-8-2006
NOME VIA: “Il mago di Oz” (P.Mazzotti-M.Simonetto, 3-4/8/1997)
DIFFICOLTA’: VI/VII-, tratti di A1 e alcuni metri di A3
SVILUPPO: Circa 850 m. in totale (370 m. di zoccolo)
MATERIALE: Una serie di nuts e friends (raddoppiando le misure 1-2-3-Camelot), numerosi chiodi e cordini in kevlar.
CORDATA: Filippo Nardi-Piero Colombo
COMMENTO: Via molto impegnativa, in ambiente piuttosto severo, sale con percorso diretto la parete nord di Cima De Gasperi, lungo una serie di diedri e fessure atletiche. La roccia è in genere buona, salvo brevi tratti friabili nel finale. Pochissimi i chiodi in parete (uno nostro lasciato ad una sosta), per cui è utile portarsene una bella scelta, oltre ad abbondanti nuts e friends per proteggersi adeguatamente. Serve un buon allenamento psico-fisico! Secondo uno degli apritori, la nostra dovrebbe essere stata la prima ripetizione.
AVVICINAMENTO: Dal rif. Tissi (noi abbiamo bivaccato all’inizio dello zoccolo) si scende al Col Rean, per poi risalire il ripido ghiaione che conduce alla base del complicato zoccolo, in comune alla via Andrich-Zancristoforo-Bianchet. Circa 0,40,h.
DISCESA: dalla cima si scende all’intaglio tra le due vette, poi per canalini franosi, sul versante est, si raggiunge velocemente la grande banca detritica che, seguita verso sx (sud-est) conduce al bivacco Tomè (circa 0,30 h.) Da qui si scende per il Giazzer, tenendo poi la sinistra, continuando a scendere per canali, lastronate e gradoni. Si passa sotto un caratteristico portale roccioso, pervenendo presso un altro nevaio, ormai ridotto al minimo. raggiunta la Val dei Cantoni, si segue la traccia ed il sentiero per il rif. Vazzoler. Circa 3,30/3,40 h.
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